Wonderful Wines from Spain

Another political season is here and while the malarkey being tossed around by both parties is enough to drive any sane person to drink, I suggest your drink of choice be wine (in moderation, of course). Why? It’s much healthier for one and, secondly, I write a wine column, not a scotch column. As I discovered long ago, scotch doesn’t enhance the writing process, although Ernest Hemingway might debate that, if he were still alive. Since he’s not, I’ll continue with my thoughts on wine.

Since Americans are now on the hook for $700 B to bail out big, well-managed (detect the irony?) mortgage banks, let me suggest more ways for you to save money on your wine purchases, without sacrificing quality, of course. For smart wine shoppers, that means buying excellent value wines from Spain. Why Spain? Glad you asked. There are several reasons actually.

First of all, Spain is the world’s third largest national producer of wine, with a wine history similar to other Old World countries that goes back over a thousand years. The fact is Spain has more vineyard land under cultivation than any other country. Most of these grapes are, however, of average quality from the Airen grape and are used to make brandy. However, Spain also has a history of quality wines, helped along by French winemakers in the late 1800’s. French vintners came south to lend their expertise to Iberian wineries after their beloved French vineyards were decimated by the phylloxera louse. The Rioja region of Spain was the primary beneficiary, leading to the popularity and fine reputation of Rioja wines today.

Significantly, Spain is the source of some excellent wines, many - almost all, really with a rare exception – representing excellent value for your money. Unlike the leading French, California and Italian wines, most Spanish wines are relatively unknown and therefore, cannot command the high prices of those other wines. Besides Rioja, do Bierzo, La Mancha, Montsant, Priorat, Rias Baixas, Ribera del Duero and Toro sound familiar? They should and provide terrific wines at bargain prices.

A big fan of Spanish wine, I attended a tasting of 10 wines imported by Folio Fine Wine Partners, owned by Michael Mondavi, son of the late Robert Mondavi. He found he had time (and a bundle of money, too) on his hands after Robert Mondavi Winery was sold in 2004. Having extensive knowledge of the wine industry, he established Folio wines to import high quality wines. Its goal is to bring one-of-a-kind wines at a variety of price points to American consumers. Based on this tasting, they surely do that.

The tasting, hosted by Fifth Ave Liquors and Metro 9 Steak House, started with a 2006 Fillaboa Albarino ($17) from Rias Biaxas, the area of Spain located north of Portugal. Albarino is a elegant, aromatic grape that makes crisp, white wine. With a lemony citrus aroma, it’s a great choice for fish and other seafood.

Spain is best known for good to great red wines, and the reds fit that profile. My favorites were the 2004 Comenge ($30), a 100% tempranillo from Ribera del Duero, the excellent 2004 Mas de l’Abundancia “Fluminis” ($30) from Montsant, and the heavenly 2004 “Embruix” ($37) from Vall Llach in Priorat.

The Comenge offered mild, but pleasant fruit and although it was a bit tannic, it will smoothen out with a little time. It’s drinkable now, but should be awesome in 24 months or so. Fluminis, a blend garnacha, carinena and cabernet sauvignon, featured nice fruit flavor and was elegant, delicious and superbly balanced. The Embruix, a blend of garnacha and carinena with a bit of syrah, merlot and cabernet sauvignon, is a highly rated wine that, at its current price, is one of the best wine bargains you’ll ever experience. It’s not cheap, but this wine would still be great at multiples of its current price. While I liked it a lot initially, it’s a wine that grows on you and I soon fell in love with it.

While these wines over-shadowed the other wines tasted, the wines were all very good. Of two Riojas from Palacios Remondo, I liked the Vendima ($15) and thought the Montesa ($20) was exceptionally good and will get even better with a little time. At those prices, less discounts, how could you lose?

I’d be remiss if I neglected to recommend two other of my favorite Spanish wines to you: the 2006 Dehesa Gago ($18) from the exciting, and up-and-coming, Toro Region and the 2004 Gotin Bru from Castell del Remei ($15) in Costers del Segre. Both are exceptional wines for the price. While I love the Gago, I like the del Remei even more. It’s a blend of 50% tempranillo, 20% cabernet Sauvignon, 20% merlot and 10% garnacha.

Buying the value wines suggested in this column should yield excellent wines and save you lots of money. Please send any money you save directly to the IRS to the attention of their Corporate Welfare Banking sub-division. Should that be painful, simply uncork another bottle.

Enjoy.